An “expert” opinion on sapphires

Victorian ring sapphire diamond

 

Recently we found an antique book on gemstones written by what we consider to be an “expert”. We just would like to share with you some of his revealing insights. On sapphires he writes:
“When a man is imposing his love on a woman, and he is obnoxious to her, thus she should pour wine over a sapphire three times and give him this to drink, with or without his will while pronouncing the following Latin adage: “Ego vinum hoc ardentibus viribus super te fundo, sicut Deus splendarem tuum, praevaricante angelo, astra xit ut ita amorem libidinis ardentis viri huius de mesabstrahas.”
 
This translates freely to: ”This wine with burning powers I thee pour, as God extinguishes the sparkling halo of the fallen angel. Likewise, it will extinguish the burning lust of this man for me”.
Perhaps important to mention is that we do NOT endorse this information. We rather suggest that any man who is in love with a woman, would offer the woman of his dreams an antique sapphire ring and then have a few glasses of wine together.
Some more revealing insights on other gemstones from our new found “expert” will follow soon.

Plique ajour enamel earrings

Plique ajour enamel earrings

click here to get to these truly magnificent earrings

Art Nouveau long pendent earrings – Art Nouveau as how you want it to be. The two rectangular enameled plates are made in a very special way; the so-called plique ajour enameling technique. Plique ajour comes from the French “plique-à-jour” meaning “braid letting in daylight”. It is a very challanging vitreous enamelling technique where the enamel is applied in cells to give it a stained glass appearance.
However these earrings were not born as earrings. Most likely they started their life as decorative parts in a chain or dog-collar necklace in the Art Nouveau period, somewhere between 1890 and 1900. But when we bought them they were mounted together in one brooch. This brooch (actually more a bulky gold framework with a needle at the back) had all the characteristics from being made somewhere between 1930 and 1950 and was specially made to hold the two plaques.
And because the framework wasn’t original and doing not much justice to the high quality of the original Art Nouveau work, we decided to remount them in a setting that would do them justice. So our master goldsmith carefully seperated them from their bulky framework and designed a refined mounting that would render their true beauty. He did so, inspired by the Art Nouveau style and imagining what and how a goldsmith from the Art Nouveau period would design them. The result is astonishing!

Important collection of rose cut diamond, Victorian Jewelry

Important collection of rose cut diamond, Victorian jewelry

Victorian flower brooch and pendant loaded with diamonds  Victorian antique diamond necklace  French Victorian branch and leaf brooch with rose cut diamonds and pearls 
French antique brooch, angel cameo, diamonds and pearls, Victorian jewelry  Antique painted miniature enameled pin diamond, Victorian jewelry 
Antique diamond dangle chandelier earrings 18kt rose gold  Antique bracelet by Gariod with star sapphire and diamonds 

Originally the term “Victorian jewelry” was designated for articles of jewelry made in the United Kingdom during the reign of Queen Victoria, but not all of the many varieties produced during her long reign, 1837-1901, are now generally classified as Victorian jewelry. These days in the international antique jewelry trade the pieces now called Victorian jewelry are not necessarily made in the United Kingdom. The term “Victorian Jewelry” became a term used for European jewelry made in the 19th century rather then the description of a certain style-movement in a specific country.

The Victorian era began in 1837 when a young Victoria ascended the throne of England. It ended over sixty years later when Queen Victoria died in 1901. During the early years of Victoria’s reign, some jewelry was made in Gothic and Renaissance styles. The jewels of the period were often accented with seed pearls and coral. The middle period saw the vogue for ostentatious jewels decorated with the greatly increased supply of pearls and South African diamonds.

After the death of Prince Albert, 1861, mourning jewelry came greatly in fashion. Jewelry became darker with more somber tones. Dark onyx and deep red garnets set in gold jewels with black enamel tracery are a typical example of this period.

The 19th century saw a revival of interest in archaeological and historical jewelry, influenced by the excavations at Pompeii and the high-quality reproductions made by the Castellanis, Carlo Guiliano, and Gicinto Melillo, and the work of John Brogden. Much Jewelry was brought back by travellers as souvenirs, especially from India and Japan from c. 1850, and this was imitated in England during the 1860s to the 1880s.

Gradually large pieces of jewelry were supplanted in the 1880-90s by smaller articles, and the production of inexpensive silver jewelry and novelty costume jewelry flourished.

 

Memento Mori in Jewellery: Anachronistic 1780s White Enamel Ring

Museum of Love and Mortality

Here is a re-posting of an indepth analysis of a spectacular and unique ring circa 1780 which Hayden Peters wrote for his fabulous site Art of Mourning. This ring, dedicated to Ann Staneway, is from my personal collection of mourning jewellery.  Enjoy!

Click here to read the post Memento Mori in Jewellery: Anachronistic 1780s White Enamel Ring Where Memento Mori Meets Neo-Classicism.

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An Exquisite Palette: A Dedication to Two

Museum of Love and Mortality

Here is a re-posting of a short piece I wrote for the fabulous site Art of Mourning. This brooch is truly a work of art in gold, black enamel and hairwork; it is dedicated to two women from the same family. It is another piece from my personal MOLAM collection of mourning jewellery.  Enjoy!

Click here to read the post For An Exquisite Palette: A Dedication to Two.

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