Important collection of rose cut diamond, Victorian jewelry
Originally the term “Victorian jewelry” was designated for articles of jewelry made in the United Kingdom during the reign of Queen Victoria, but not all of the many varieties produced during her long reign, 1837-1901, are now generally classified as Victorian jewelry. These days in the international antique jewelry trade the pieces now called Victorian jewelry are not necessarily made in the United Kingdom. The term “Victorian Jewelry” became a term used for European jewelry made in the 19th century rather then the description of a certain style-movement in a specific country.
The Victorian era began in 1837 when a young Victoria ascended the throne of England. It ended over sixty years later when Queen Victoria died in 1901. During the early years of Victoria’s reign, some jewelry was made in Gothic and Renaissance styles. The jewels of the period were often accented with seed pearls and coral. The middle period saw the vogue for ostentatious jewels decorated with the greatly increased supply of pearls and South African diamonds.
After the death of Prince Albert, 1861, mourning jewelry came greatly in fashion. Jewelry became darker with more somber tones. Dark onyx and deep red garnets set in gold jewels with black enamel tracery are a typical example of this period.
The 19th century saw a revival of interest in archaeological and historical jewelry, influenced by the excavations at Pompeii and the high-quality reproductions made by the Castellanis, Carlo Guiliano, and Gicinto Melillo, and the work of John Brogden. Much Jewelry was brought back by travellers as souvenirs, especially from India and Japan from c. 1850, and this was imitated in England during the 1860s to the 1880s.
Gradually large pieces of jewelry were supplanted in the 1880-90s by smaller articles, and the production of inexpensive silver jewelry and novelty costume jewelry flourished.
Micro Mosaic brooch by Castellani
Master Jewellers of the 19th Century
Castellani – Castellani’s first shop was opened in Rome in the year 1814. Specializing in recreating jewelry of ancient craftsmen, particularly the Etruscans, his work became fashionable and much wanted in 19th Century Europe and America. The Castellani shop had the aristocracy and the so-called grand tourists as customers.
Many of the designs of Castellani’s jewelry is based on archaeological evidence and often incorporated cameos, intaglios and micromosaics (like the one pictured) into his jewelry. The Castellani dynasty spanned three generations and nowadays Castellani is one of the big names in antique jewelry that is most sought for and very rare to find.
Although not obvious on first sight, these are not Latin but Greek letters. The letters EY stand for “good health” but one could also say it’s the abbreviation for “Eternally Yours”.
This brooch was offered to us in the shop in this condition. Made somewhere between 1300 and 1400 (always hard to pin-point exactly). We decided to leave it untouched as we think that any repair or alteration to this jewel won’t do it justice as it will take away its genuine character.
What do we see? Born as a cross, with a center stone that is either ruby or spinel and three remaining settings, most likely for the same type of stone as in the center. Three remaining, as it is obvious that there was a fourth setting. The little pins sticking out of the center, where most likely meant to keep pearls in its place. We can still see the rubbed ends of the pins, showing a sort of riveting technique. We also think the brooch has been in the ground for a long time, long enough to have the pearls dissolved.
It still has its original stick pin and closure. Just imagine when people ask you “What strange thing are you wearing?” and you can say that it’s a piece that is some 700 years old!
An extraordinary piece with true charisma!
(click the picture to see the details of this beauty)
We are proud to present you here an Art Deco ring with a truly magnificent Colombian emerald. This is how one wants to have an emerald. The velvetish warm green color of this stone makes it a true gem. One truly magnificent Colombian old mine emerald with a weight of 1.85 crt and hardly any ‘Jardin’. Jardin – French for “garden” – Is a group of three-phase, moss-like inclusions that are to be seen in almost every emerald and that constitute an acceptable, sometimes attractive, flaw. See the certificate for the specifications of this beauty as the pictures do not do really reveal the beauty of this gem.
Although the back of this jewel is in yellow gold, the diamonds are set in platinum. Mounted with 18kt yellow gold prawns in an entourage of small old mine cut diamonds (no less then 62) with a total weight of 1.20 carats and set in platinum gives an ovErall chique and yet unpretentious design. Look and enjoy!
Click to see more genuine Colombian emerald rings
Here is a fine craftsmanship antique ring in gold considered to be of the Romantic Victorian Period with a large comfortable band featuring nine rose cut diamonds set in marquise shape; the rose cuts are set on foil, this is a special technique that was used to bring the lustre of the diamonds to its best quality. The ring presents elegant floral patterns and one small golden ball on each side of the setting.
The jewel is made of silver on top and backed with 18kt red gold; this technique finds its origin centuries ago, when jewelers believed that only a silver mounting could render the true beauty of a diamond. Backing the silver jewel with a (thin) layer of gold was a practical precaution taken to avoid the silver jewelry leaving black stains on clothing or skin.
During the 1840s, while the young Queen Victoria’s influence on jewel fashions was emerging, patterns for gold-work very much revolved around the natural world. These motifs suited feminine delicacy and the purely ornamental woman. In this era of peace and prosperity, wealth was displayed in jewels and especially in a sumptuous spread of gold, rich scrolls, pierced, strap-work, or gold twigs twisted and entwined with foliage.
Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era.
Antique rose cut diamonds ring Ref.11035-0021
diamonds, silver, 18kt red gold
origin: most probably Belgium
top of ring: 1.20 cm (0.47 inch) x 1.60 cm (0.63 inch)
weight: 6.50 grams
Size: US 7½