Plique ajour enamel earrings

Plique ajour enamel earrings

click here to get to these truly magnificent earrings

Art Nouveau long pendent earrings – Art Nouveau as how you want it to be. The two rectangular enameled plates are made in a very special way; the so-called plique ajour enameling technique. Plique ajour comes from the French “plique-à-jour” meaning “braid letting in daylight”. It is a very challanging vitreous enamelling technique where the enamel is applied in cells to give it a stained glass appearance.
However these earrings were not born as earrings. Most likely they started their life as decorative parts in a chain or dog-collar necklace in the Art Nouveau period, somewhere between 1890 and 1900. But when we bought them they were mounted together in one brooch. This brooch (actually more a bulky gold framework with a needle at the back) had all the characteristics from being made somewhere between 1930 and 1950 and was specially made to hold the two plaques.
And because the framework wasn’t original and doing not much justice to the high quality of the original Art Nouveau work, we decided to remount them in a setting that would do them justice. So our master goldsmith carefully seperated them from their bulky framework and designed a refined mounting that would render their true beauty. He did so, inspired by the Art Nouveau style and imagining what and how a goldsmith from the Art Nouveau period would design them. The result is astonishing!

Georgian ring black enamel friendship 18kt yellow gold

Antique Georgian ring black enamel friendship 18kt yellow gold
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Antique Georgian ring black enamel friendship 18kt yellow gold Antique Georgian ring black enamel friendship 18kt yellow gold Antique Georgian ring black enamel friendship 18kt yellow gold Antique Georgian ring black enamel friendship 18kt yellow gold Antique Georgian ring black enamel friendship 18kt yellow gold

Here is a beautiful Georgian ring featuring black enamel and floral motifs in 18kt yellow gold. On the top of the ring, we can read “amitiés” written in French which means friendship. This can be of French of Belgian origin because the hallmark used, a horse head, was used in both countries from about 1831.

Georgian jewelry is rather rare as when time passed most worn out, was melted or taken apart and re-used for more modern designs. Materials like gold, silver and diamonds were very scarce and expensive and little consideration for fine craftmanship was taken with the “old stuff” when the owners wanted to wear their gold and diamonds according to the latest fashion in jewelry.

Besides a little dusting off we didn’t have to do anything to offer it in its original beauty. Early 19th century, the ring is very good condition.

Enamel

Enamel Jewelry

– E –

A pigment of a vitreous nature composed usually of powdered potash and silica, bound with oil, coloured with metallic oxides, and applied to porcelain, gold, silver, copper, glass, etc., as a surface decoration by low-temperature firing. Enamels are usually mixed with a flux to facilitate melting at a low temperature. They often sink deeply into the glaze of artificial porcelain, but are not absorbed into the feldspathic glazes of true porcelain or into the surface of gold, silver, copper or glass, and so remain on the surface of these, easily palpable to the finger-tips. The French term is émail, the Italian smalto, and the German schmeltz.