Antique Russian gold bracelet malachite pearls
Top quality antique gold Russian articulated bracelet with seven high domed malachite stones elements pierced with floral patterns, gold balls, stars and seven seed pearls. Moving parts are invisible with fine gold wire work. The bracelet closes perfectly with a gold closure and a security chain.
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Here is a fine craftsmanship antique ring in gold considered to be of the Romantic Victorian Period with a large comfortable band featuring nine rose cut diamonds set in marquise shape; the rose cuts are set on foil, this is a special technique that was used to bring the lustre of the diamonds to its best quality. The ring presents elegant floral patterns and one small golden ball on each side of the setting.
The jewel is made of silver on top and backed with 18kt red gold; this technique finds its origin centuries ago, when jewelers believed that only a silver mounting could render the true beauty of a diamond. Backing the silver jewel with a (thin) layer of gold was a practical precaution taken to avoid the silver jewelry leaving black stains on clothing or skin.
During the 1840s, while the young Queen Victoria’s influence on jewel fashions was emerging, patterns for gold-work very much revolved around the natural world. These motifs suited feminine delicacy and the purely ornamental woman. In this era of peace and prosperity, wealth was displayed in jewels and especially in a sumptuous spread of gold, rich scrolls, pierced, strap-work, or gold twigs twisted and entwined with foliage.
Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era.
Antique rose cut diamonds ring Ref.11035-0021
diamonds, silver, 18kt red gold
origin: most probably Belgium
top of ring: 1.20 cm (0.47 inch) x 1.60 cm (0.63 inch)
weight: 6.50 grams
Size: US 7½
E. Vernier is a famous French medaillist, that was one of the foremen of the revival of the medaillist art in France around 1886. He was also a collaborator of Falize (other famous French jeweller) and awarded the prestigious “Medal of Honor at the Salon”.
A similar pin is depicted in the famous “jewelry bible” by Henri Vever “French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century” in the English translation on page 1048.
Pendant cross type “Flemish” or “Antwerp” in silver on top and backed with 18K red gold, set with 16 rose cut diamonds in close setting. The rose cuts are set on foil, this is a special technique that was used to bring the lustre of the diamonds to its best quality.
This jewel is a fine example of the skill and craftsmanship of jewelers in Antwerp in the 18th and 19th century. The city was well known for centuries for its wealth which resulted in sumptuous jewels set with diamonds. The influence of religion was very present in those days, the refinement, the materials and the stones reinforced this sign of devotion. This type of cross was worn on a long silver chain and was a very expensive gift worn by pretty women in the north of Belgium in the first half of the 19th century.
The technique “silver on top and backed with 18K red gold” finds its origin centuries ago, when jewelers believed that only a silver mounting could render the true beauty of a diamond. Backing the silver jewel with a (thin) layer of gold was a practical precaution taken to avoid the silver jewelry leaving black stains on clothing or skin.
Most of these crosses are now owned by the church or in private collections.
Cross “Anversoise” ref.10343-0049
diamonds, silver, 18 carats red gold
control mark letter ‘E’
origin: Belgium – Antwerp
height: 3.48 cm (1.37 inch)
weight: 3.50 grams
Antique gold locket in book shaped, height turquoises, floral pattern, bouquet of roses and butterfly on each side, the edges present granulation work, invisible hinge, open space with original human hair protected by a glass. Fixed bail and ribbed hoop.
This is magnificent French craftsmanship from the first half of the 19th century. The goldsmith used very small balls (granules) of gold along the borders, which are not soldered to the piece but welded. This technique demand very high skills and precision from the maker. Inside there is a compartment where still a lock of hair is kept.
If the jewel speaked openly of the wearer, it could also do so in secret. Rings and lockets contained a memory of a loved one: love letters, locks of hair, photographs. In the words of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, the jewel is a “sign of memories”. The use of precious materials like gold and turquoise reinforced this feeling. “Do not forget me” or “think of me” translated by the color blue, a popular color used among lovers.
Locket “bouquet de roses” ref.10165-0470
18 carats red/yellow/green gold, ram’s head hallmark
turquoises, human hair
dimensions: 3.04 cm (1.20 inch) by 2.42 cm (0.95 inch)
weight: 19.80 grams
Pendant called “Saint Esprit” or holy spirit speckled with white and green enamel and has foiled paste stones with a magical pinkish/red/gold colouring called “oil and vinegar”. Three “pendeloques” or pendent elements set with stones are articulated to the dove.
This pendant belongs to a rare collection of French Provincial gold crosses and Saint-Esprit pendants. Saint Esprit was a religious icon and worn by French wealthy peasant women throughout the eighteenth century, both a symbol of faith and a fashion statement.
You can find this rare piece of jewelry in the book “Georgian Jewellery 1714-1830” written by Ginny Redington Dawes with Olivia Collings, page 153.
According to the Bible, the dove of “Saint Esprit” or Holy Spirit descending from heaven to earth with wings spread is the symbol of love, but it is also the spirit of power. The Protestants took it as a rallying point. Mixed With religious symbolism and ancient memories, this bird was quickly assimilated to the union and a promise of fertility. It is the symbol most often represented in Normandy in the 18th century.
This pendant presents three “pendeloques” or pendants called “tears of Christ” or “gourds of pilgrims”. This type of jewel was worn by beautiful and wealthy peasant women in France before the Empire period.
As quoted “The women of lower status wear around the neck small gold cross hanging from a narrow velvet ribbon, elegant women wear a gold chain which is attached a Saint Esprit descending to the middle of the breast.”
Pendant “Saint Esprit” ref.10031-4376
18 carats yellow gold, strass stones
origin: France – Auvergne
height 7.55 cm (2.97 inch)
Here is a beautiful Georgian ring featuring black enamel and floral motifs in 18kt yellow gold. On the top of the ring, we can read “amitiés” written in French which means friendship. This can be of French of Belgian origin because the hallmark used, a horse head, was used in both countries from about 1831.
Georgian jewelry is rather rare as when time passed most worn out, was melted or taken apart and re-used for more modern designs. Materials like gold, silver and diamonds were very scarce and expensive and little consideration for fine craftmanship was taken with the “old stuff” when the owners wanted to wear their gold and diamonds according to the latest fashion in jewelry.
Besides a little dusting off we didn’t have to do anything to offer it in its original beauty. Early 19th century, the ring is very good condition.